Finding balance in Dahab

Jack and I knew we needed a “vacation” after the family left. We’d been trying to decide where to go/what to do since early December. The first thought was Petra, Jordan. Everyone we spoke with said we’d freeze our butts off in Jordan in January. We contemplated “Mombasa, in a barroom drinking gin” – you can’t get to Mombasa easily from here. We honed in on Sinai – snorkeling, diving and sitting on the beach sounded great – but where? People talk about Sharm el Sheik as the resort capital of Sinai – we aren’t really resort people. Lucy had talked about Dahab – more laid back, but also the scene of the March bombing last year – would it be safe? We read, we talked.

We blindly decided to made reservations in Dahab at the relatively up-scale, Swiss/Egyptian run Christina Beach Palace. We “splurged” on a real hotel instead of a “backpackers” or a “camp”. We had no knowledge of the hotel, or Dahab, but asked the (nearly always loaded) question, “How bad could it be?”

IT WAS AMAZING. I’m not just talking about the hotel, which was great, but the whole experience was incredible. The hotel was clean, friendly and nearly empty. Our room had a tiny balcony that looked out on the Gulf of Aquaba.

Our breakfast each morning was included, so we enjoyed fuul, taamiya and ahwa in the open-air dining area. There is a pedestrian (and occasional horse) walkway that runs along the water for the entire length of Dahab. The walkway is lined on the land-side with hotels, camps, shops and dive centers and on the sea-side with restaurants and cafes. We spent much of our week in Dahab walking along the “ramblas” and hanging in this or that cafe. It afforded us a great vantage for watching the Russians get dive instruction or the street-girls hassle khawaga touristas in bikinis into buying bracelets or just relaxing with the cats.

We both got “back in the water”. The Red Sea is known for its myriad corals and fish, beautiful, clear water and innumerable places to dive or snorkel. We took advantage of this. We eased our way in by spending a day snorkeling at some sites that I’ve read about for YEARS (Canyons and Blue Hole). We canvassed the dive centers and finally booked dives with Sinai Divers. They were slightly bigger and more expensive, and were very concerned about safety and proper preparation for diving. For a new diver (Jack) and a new-to-this-venue diver (me) the focus on protocol and safety was comforting. Our dives were great. We both struggled with different demons. Mine were primarily the demons of new gear and buoyancy. Learning a new regulator set-up AND going back to diving wet AND a new BCD gave me a lot to think about.

The demons were quickly dispatched as we began moving around the reef. I saw my first lionfish!! I’ve only ever seen them in commerical aquaria – on our fist dive, I saw 3 of them! (I’ve since come to find out that they are as “common as goldfish” here!) It was sooooo nice to be back on SCUBA. For me, SCUBA feels completely natural. Of course I can swim AND breathe. My pulse, blood pressure and respiration drop when I’m diving. I finish a dive tired and completely relaxed. I always sleep well after diving.

The total lack of schedule, fresh air, SCUBA and snorkeling, good food and the best company was just what the doctor ordered. The Cairo homecoming was appreciated. Life had more color. Some semblance of balance was restored. We’re already trying to figure out when we can get back to Dahab!

Just thinking about it drops my respiration and blood pressure. Life is good.