The Khan – at night this time

Last time we went to the Khan, just after arriving in Cairo, we got lost in some of the more “industrial” areas (where tourists don’t go). After being crushed by humanity in some tiny alleyways and then being in a warren of metalworks shops, I got TOTALLY overwhelmed and (more than a little) freaked out. Jack was great. He got us back to the main area, and I could breathe again. Since then I have been a little hesitant about going back to the Khan. Once bitten, twice shy – and all of that.

This evening, we went back. The whole area is different at night. Everything is even more different during the weekend during Ramadan. When we arrived, we went to a slightly different starting point and it made all the difference in the world. Midan Hussein, where we began our adventure tonite, was FILLED with tables of people waiting for Iftar (the announcement that the sun had set and they could eat). One could not walk across the square for the masses of people waiting to break fast.

We entered the Khan from near the Hussein mosque, and it was COMPLETELY unlike the last time we were there. THIS was what I’d expected the Khan to be like. For the first 30 or so minutes that we wandered the alleyways of the bazaar, it was nearly empty. Vendors and shoppers were breaking fast. Many groups of vendors gestured to us to join them in their Iftar meal. We politely declined and continued to wander around. As Iftar passed, the hordes of humanity began to fill the small passages.

This time it was friendly and hospitable, if not still filled with agressive touts. Tonite, most of them seemed to think I was Spanish. Shouts of, “Hola, senorita” were my most common greeting. Everyone wants to sell you something, and I was not overwhelmed this time. We saw some nice rugs and poufs that we may go back and bargain for at another time. The rug boys were too lazy to even try to get our business, and the pouf guys were asking astronomical prices. Jack got to play hard-to-get with the shopkeeper at an alabaster stall, however. Both men seemed to enjoy the cat-and-mouse game. I was very glad I did not have to participate. I do not enjoy bargaining.

I began the motions of bargaining for a pair of slippers, but failed miserably. This gave Jack great amusement, and reinforced my hatred of bargaining.

All in all it was a very good evening. We got some beautiful alabaster pieces. We had mint tea at El Fishawy cafe – a former haunt of writer Naguib Mahfouz. We reveled in the insanity that is the Khan on a Ramadan Friday evening.

I am glad we are home now – relaxing and basking in the Khan afterglow.