29 December 2006 – They are here and settled. They slept REALLY late – go figure! Once everyone was awake and somewhat alert, they got their Christmas from Jack and me. Nothing big, the “girls” got silver cartouches and embroidered Bedouin scarves as a momento of Egypt, and Steve got a galabiyya for hanging out it at home. Simple reminders of Egypt.
I’d “planned” that it would be a quiet day, to allow the jet lag to abate a bit. The big adventure for the day was to wander around the neighborhood, pick up some juice, fruit and groceries and relax. We also found a silver shop for a chain for Kenz’ cartouche. All in all a very quiet day, with an evening drink atop the Nile Hilton for views of the Giza pyramids at sunset.
30 December – the Great Pyramids of Giza!
Everyone was up early to get to the pyramids. We taxied out to Giza on the quietest morning I’ve ever seen in Cairo. Today was the first day of the Eid el Adha – the new year feast. The streets were deserted of cars, but filled with sheep being butchered and meat being distributed. The streets literally ran with blood. It sounds gory and disgusting, yet there was nothing nasty about it. This was joyous. This was the affluent sharing their meat with the poor. This was how it was supposed to be. Bloody hand prints on walls and cars were talismans symbolizing prosperity for the new year. For a Western first-timer it was both fascinating and unsettling.
We arrived at the Giza plateau, got tickets and headed in. The area was relatively quiet, with far fewer visitors than we’d expected (much to Steve’s pleasure!). We spent the better part of the morning and early afternoon just wandering and exploring. We did not enter either of the pyramids (Sakara was recommended for entering) but did go to the Solar Boat Museum. I, personally, think the Solar Boat is unbelievably cool and was very glad to see it again!
Highlights of Giza:
- Very few people, so a really mellow exploration
- Walking forever around all the pyramids
- Mom finding her Bedouin camel jockey boyfriend while Steve, Jack and I just watch
- Steve paying LE2 to get mom back!
- Some pics of Giza (some shamelessly coopted from mom)
The rest of the post…
31 December – Egyptian Antiquities Museum and Khan al Khalili
Another lazy morning and then off to the Museum. This was MY first time in the museum, so it was an adventure all around. When we entered, we were stopped by security and told that we had to go back outside and leave our cameras in a dropbox. There were no signs outside to tell us that, our tickets had already been torn for entry, and we did not feel comfortable about the setup, so we came up with an “alternative” plan.
The museum houses an incredible number of pieces, from many different eras, yet the displays are so chaotic, with little or no information and nothing to engage the visitor that we got overloaded very quickly. We saw some of the Tut antiquities, many sarcophagi (sp?), pillars and lintle pieces from many different eras and finally had to call it quits and get lunch.
After lunch, Steve, Kenz and I went to the Khan al Khalili market for a quick look around. We really weren’t looking for anything, but Kenz won out and ended up with a GORGEOUS galabiyya and crochet skullcap.
New Year’s Eve was spent in our living room, eating mezzes and drinking Sakara or fruity rum drinks. All adults actually made it to midnight in Cairo before retiring for a good sleep.
1 January 2007 – Night Train to Luxor
New Year’s day, and mom’s bag is still lost in the ether. Guess we really need to do something about getting her some clothes! Steve and Kenzie went for a walk to the Fish Garden while mom and I went to get her some other clothes and a pair of good walking shoes. Both expeditions were very successful, and we got ready to head to the Giza train station for the Abela Sleeper Train to Luxor.
Jack was convinced that we needed to be at the station WAY early, so we arrived in Giza about an hour and a half before the train was scheduled to depart. This is Egypt! Time has a different meaning here. We waited on the platform for nearly 2 hours before our train actually arrived. We wearily boarded, ate an “airplane-sque” microwave dinner and snoozed on the train.