Categories
Cultural Differences Photographs

Just 1 degree out of focus

There are many times here when it feels like my world is just the smallest bit shifted from “reality”. The things one sees and the things one hears can be confusing.

The language is one of those. The script is very different from western alphabets. Add to that the fact that often signs use a highly stylized form of the writing with extra swirls and flourishes and it can be extremely difficult for a novice to identify the letters, never mind the words.

Some letters have dots above or below the letter that change the letter. For instance the letter (equivalent) to “b” has a dot below it. But the dot above and it is an “n”. Put 2 dots above it and it is a “t”.

I spent a good 5 minutes standing on the side of the road looking at this sign

doh! good thing i'm purty

trying to figure out what that bottom word was. It starts out (right to left) as “al sh” but then there is a “b” and and “r”. It made no sense.

Then I realized that the “dot” on the bottom was a bolt attaching the sign to the post. Doh!

I laughed long enough that the people I were with were a little concerned about what I found so funny.

Categories
Cultural Differences Photographs

Oh yeah

About once a month of so, the power and water get shut off in the building we live in for a couple of hours. They flush the water pump and some other routine maintenance.

They always put up a sign and they always schedule it for Friday. Though, about 3 out of 4 times, they don’t actually do it on Friday, they do it on Saturday.

Friday… Saturday… malesh.
Anyway, here is the most recent sign.

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas.

Categories
Cultural Differences Photographs

I have been trying for nearly 6 months to get this shot

I either couldn’t get my camera out in time, or it would come out all blurry or the guy would turn a corner at the last minute.

And this one still isn’t all that great..

easy.... easy

There are probably hundreds of these fellows in Cairo. You see them on the busiest streets. They are bread delivery men, obviously. They ride these single speed, flintstone style braking, rusted old contraptions from very early in the morning, till late in the evening delivering bread to sidewalk vendors.

The bread is often piled on some newspaper on the sidewalk and the person selling the bread is usually a young boy.

I have only once see the aftermath of a spill. The guy was picking up bread off the street and piling it back on the rack. I am sure it went to its destination and was sold.

Categories
Out and about Photographs

A Walk in the Park..

A few days ago, we decided to visit Al Azhar Mosque, and Al Azhar Park.

They are “near” each other and near the Khan Al Khalili.

We took a taxi to the Mosque. This is a rather important mosque, in that it is attached to the Al Azhar University. This is, basically, the head of Sharia Law in Egypt (and most of the Sunni Islamic world.) It claims to be the oldest operating university in the world.

Anyway, we walked around the outside of the mosque as well as inside.

Detail work

We instantly attracted an unofficial “guide”. He wanted to show us around. Which consists of pointing at things and saying “look. big” or “see, very old”. For this he wanted to extract payment. This kind of thing happens in many places in Egypt. A few rounds of “La, Shokrun” eventually will get him to go away.

We then headed off to Al Azhar Park. This park is just outside the old walks of the city. The site of the park used to be an unofficial trash dump. It was where people dumped their trash and refuse. It was reclaimed and built up in layers over the old dump site. It is the largest green space in Cairo. It is truly a beautiful and incongruous place in the midst of the sprawl.

The park, on the map, looked like it was right next to the Mosque. And in fact it is. Except there is only one official entrance.

Motorcycle parking!

We ended up walking almost exactly half way around the park to get it. It was hot and sunny that day. We were rather warm by the time we made it.

Luckily we were able to lounge about by the fountains and pools in the shade to cool off.

cool gardens

We wandered around the park. It is built in layers, and there are fountains and pools and walkways that go up and down the different levels.

When it was time to go, we walked down the backside of the park, that faces the city and out a “back door” of the park through a construction site and back to the noise and chaos of the city.

It was a gorgeous break from the noise.

All the photos are available here.

Categories
Cultural Differences Out and about

They call me “baba”

[I know I am probably never gonna hear the end of this…]

This is a culture that respects age. An older woman is shown a great deal of respect. An older man, even more so.

When a group of people are together and deal with someone else outside the group, say a waiter or salesperson, you can see the waiter/salesperson scan the group. He/she will then address the senior looking man in the group.

Even if the senior person in the group attempts to defer to someone else, the natural tendency is to continue to deal with the senior male.

If it is a group of just women, the senior woman will become the de facto spokesperson. There is also some interplay of class involved. Dressing nicely here gets you a lot more respect. It would be interesting to observe a group of people made up of a poorly dressed older gentleman and a well dressed younger man to see who got the nod as spokesperson.

Anyway.

So, we went to the White Desert over Thanksgiving. There were 4 of us. Kaddee, E, R and myself.

Kaddee still looks like her high school yearbook photo in age.

E is a woman of about 25 years. 🙂

R is a man that looks about 18. I think he is around 29, but he looks very young.

So the 4 of us climb in a bus and head to Bahariya.

We arrive and are met by Ahmed El Shymy, our bedouin guide. He scans the 4 of us. You can see his eyes go from person to person.

He then turns to talk to me. Throughout our weekend with him and his guides, I was constantly consulted to make sure i was happy. No decisions were made without my consent. I would turn to the group for consensus but the final say was clearly mine.

I got “dibs” on shotgun in the vehicle. I got served tea or food first. It was odd. It was amusing. It also became somewhat tiring.

So after the first night, the bedouins start referring to me as “baba”, which is, literally “papa”. It was said with a great deal of good humor and meant as a sign of respect.

They also sat around the campfire on the second night and made up songs about baba jack who was freezing cold and huddled under blankets trying to make up for a lack of sleep the night before.

Funny bedouin bastards.

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Uncategorized

[name snipped to avoid deportation] patted my wife’s ass

The good Doctor and I were at one of the many parties put on by one of the many ex-pats.

There were some “famous” people there. Famous being a relative term: authors, egyptologists, entertainers.

Anyway, there was one older gentleman there. He is rather well known in the world of Egyptology, but shall remain nameless. [The libel laws are very strong and swiftly applied in Egypt.]

As the good doctor passed this gentleman in the hallway, she got a firm, but gentle pat on the ass. The patter did not break stride in the conversation he was having with the person next to him. If you weren’t paying close attention, you never would have seen it.

She told me afterwards. We chuckled. She has joined a very large and distinguished group of women.

It is almost a rite of passage. heh.

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Uncategorized

Obligatory “Gee I haven’t posted in a while” post

There are some universal constants. One of them seems to be that people fall behind in their blogs.

It has been a busy time here, but not all that interesting. Just day to day life since we got back from the White Desert.

Kaddee was wrapping up the semester. I have been working. Nothing exciting.

The holidays (Western Christmas, Eid al Adha, Coptic Christmas, Coptic New Years) came and went.

Kaddee’s family arrived for 2 weeks. We went to Giza, and the Egyptian Museum, and Luxor/Valley of the Kings/Karnak/ Hetshepsut’s temple, Ibn Tuloun Mosque, the Khan etc.

Kaddee has some good write-ups of the visit.

Anyway, I will cull through some photos and put some up RSN.

Categories
NSTIW

HO HO HO! Did I mention?

The Faculty Services Committee at AUC does lots of events all year for the faculty. They arrange tours to the pyramids, trips to Alexandria, museum visits etc.

They also have a Christmas party for the childrens every year. The regular Santa Claus is a member of the committee. Well this year, he had to fly back to the US for some surgery at the last minute. That left them without a Santa.

And the woman that usually plays the elf also had to leave Egypt for medical reasons. (Hmm, I hope there is no curse on those costumes…)

Anyway, the regular Santa knows me and felt I would make a great replacement. This thinking was entirely based on the fact that I would fit the costume without any modifications. I.E. I am short enough and fat enough.

So I got an email from the nice woman that coordinates this thing asking if I would be Santa and if Kaddee would be the Elf.

I have to admit that I wasn’t really excited about it but I said I would do it since they were kinda stuck.

So, there were 90 children, and 1/2 hour to “process them”. Hoist them on my knee, ask em their name (ismik a?) and how old they are (kaam omrak?) give em a small stocking stuffed with candy and send them on their way.

I was pretty nervous. I have never done anything like that before. The language and cultural differences were just icing on the cake.

After the first 10 or so kids it became kinda fun. Joke with the kids and the parents and kaddee. That was great for the next 50 or so kids. That last 30 kids was tough. It was really warm in that suit.

And then there was the little girl that was also celebrating her birthday that day. We got clued in so when she sat on my lap and told me her name, I said

“Wait a minute! It is your birthday today, right? Happy Birthday” and we all sang happy birthday to her.

The look on her face was priceless and worth the anxiety and sweating for 1/2 hour in the velour Santa suit.

Of course getting some of the cute moms to sit on my lap was nice too. 🙂

I understand the regular Santa wants his gig back when he returns. He is gonna have to wrestle me for it.

Merry Christmas.

Categories
Photographs Travel

White Desert Photos

I have a bunch of photos from our Thanksgiving trip to the White Desert. Some of them are up here.

I will have a post or two eventually.

Categories
Cultural Differences

Elevator chaos.

Getting on an elevator here is interesting.

First there is the physical nature of the elevators.

Many of them are the old open cage style that is often retro-fitted in the middle of a curving staircase in an older building. Push the button and IF the previous user of the elevator remembered to close the inner doors, the elevator will come down.

Open the outer door, the inner doors, get in, close the outer door, close the inner doors, push button.

There are also more modern ones, in newer buildings, like ones we see in the US all the time.

Both types tend to stop close enough to the desired floor. There is always a small (and sometimes not so small) step up or down when getting in or out of an elevator.

But all of this is a minor annoyance that one quickly adjusts to and forgets about.

What is more interesting and frustrating to me, is the social/cultural differences in the way that elevators are used here.

Here is how it works:

Walk up to the elevator call buttons. Regardless of which floor you are on and which direction you want to go, push both buttons.

Then stand directly in front of the doors.

When the doors open, allow an appropriate amount of time for people to get out of the elevator. This appropriate amount of time is approx 10 microseconds.

Walk into the elevator, but only just enough to clear the doors.

Ok, sometimes people don’t actually get in far enough to clear the doors, and it will take 2 cycles of the doors starting to close and re-opening before someone will move.

Stand there, blocking people trying to enter or exit.

So now, you are on the elevator. It might be going in the direction you want to go in. Or it might not. But you are along for the ride.

What this means is that people on the ground floor of a building, that want to go up, will get on the elevator even if it is going down to the parking area. So then the elevator will be full going down.

It will go down one level, 1 or 2 people will get off and then it will go up again to ground. It will stop at the ground level, the doors will open, but there will be no one left to get on, cause they all got on when it was going down, see?

This means that the elevator is almost guaranteed to stop at every floor going up, and going down.

Unless you are really lazy or carrying something heavy, it is almost always faster to walk.

Fun fun.