Categories
Out and about Uncategorized

Yeah, kinda like that…

A quote from a book I read recently titled:

The Sex Lives of Cannibals

“The foreigners one meets tend to live life in a vivid and eccentric sort of way, and when you listen to their tales of high adventure in the South Seas, you find that you are subsequently ruined from a conversational point of view, that you can no longer even pretend to be remotely interested in someone’s trip to the mall, or their thoughts about the stock market, or their opinions about the relative merit of a football player, and soon you will be branded as aloof, simply because once, on a faraway island, you heard some pretty good stories.”

Categories
Out and about

Taming the lizard brain

The “lizard brain” is a term I use to describe the “old” part of the brain. The part that triggers the four “F”s of the limbic system

  • fight
  • flight
  • feeding
  • reproduction

An example:

Take a large human male, wrap him in neoprene, stick a big metal tank full of air on his back, slap a bunch of weight on him, cram a hunk of rubber, plastic and metal into his mouth, connected to said tank by a TEENY TINY RUBBER HOSE, submerge him in sea water and tell him

BREATHE NORMALLY

The lizard brain is the part of you brain that says

BREATHE NORMALLY? BREATHING NORMALLY does NOT involve all this equipment and it CERTAINLY doesn’t involve breathing UNDERWATER. GET TO THE SURFACE YOU MORON!! NOW!!

Heh.

I received PADI’s Open Water Diver certification about 11 years ago.

I never used it after that.

About 1.5 years ago, we went to Dahab, on the Gulf of Aqaba (part of the Red Sea) in Egypt.

I did a dive.

I did not particularly enjoy it.

My lizard brain was kicking and screaming.

I kept looking at my gauges and wondering “can I go back on shore now?”

I was pretty bummed out about it. Cause I “wanted” to enjoy diving. But it just wasn’t working for me. I did a few more dives and was never really happy about it.

Time goes by.

Another trip to Dahab. Another dive. This time was better, but still not really enjoyable. It was OK.

Another trip to Dahab. Another dive. I had a good time on this dive and actually enjoyed myself. While it would be a great stretch to say that I was “comfortable”, I was more relaxed and not fixated on the fact that

ALL MY AIR IS COMING THROUGH THIS LITTLE HOSE AND THERE ARE ABOUT A MILLION THINGS THAT CAN GO WRONG.

Hardly thought about that part of it all.

After that dive I realized I had conquered my fears and enjoyed myself. I had gotten back on the horse camel that had thrown me and proved to myself that I could do it.

So what’s next?

One thought that went through my mind was

Ok, you can do it. You conquered your fear. It is no longer bugging you. Declare victory and pull out.

In other words, I had nothing left to prove. I could retire from diving on a high note.

I mean it is a hassle.

It is a lot of heavy gear. It requires expensive equipment. Suiting up is a laborious process. And there is an undeniable amount of danger involved

If I want inconvenience, expense and danger, I can go motorcycling.

(It is a lot of heavy gear. It requires expensive equipment. Suiting up is a laborious process. And there is an undeniable amount of danger involved.)

Right? I don’t need scuba.

Snorkeling is fun too. Cheaper, less dangerous, much less gear required.

When we left Dahab last time (in July) that was my thinking: I am done. khallas.

We are back in Dahab for the month of August. We have a little apartment with a view of the sea and Wi-Fi. I am working and generally just enjoying living 2 blocks from the beach.

What have I been doing in my spare time?

I must not fear.
Fear is the mind-killer.
Fear is the little-death that brings total obliteration.
I will face my fear.
I will permit it to pass over me and through me.
And when it has gone past I will turn the inner eye to see its path.
Where the fear has gone there will be nothing.
Only I will remain.

I am now a certified Advance Open Water Diver.

A big thank you to Kasia, Pritesh, Shadi, Khaled and all the other great people at Sinai Divers, Backpackers Dahab.

Categories
Out and about Photographs

I’m going to Memphis, Memphis….

About a month ago, we had the great privilege to attend a tour of Sakarra and Memphis with Dr Alain Zivie.

Dr Zivie has been digging in Sakarra for a very long time. He has made many notable discoveries including a mummified lion and the tomb of the wetnurse to Tutankhamen and is featured in a short movie they show at the Imhotep museum in the Sakarra complex.

He took us on a tour of the necropolis of Sakarra. We visited the tomb of Horemheb.

Much of that tomb’s original art now lives in museums in Paris, Belgium and London. Most of what is on the site now are replicas. They are still quite amazing.

All of this sits a few minutes walk from the main tourist attractions. And is practically unknown.

Dr Zivie then took us to Memphis. Not much remains of the once royal city of Egypt. Some statues mostly, and vague impressions on the ground of where walls once stood.

I managed to snap a few photos, as always.

Categories
Cultural Differences Out and about The Ordinary

Ramadan Kareem

(which roughly means “Happy Ramadan”)

As has been written by any number of bloggers and others, Ramadan can be a stressful time. 12 hours or so of no food, no water, no caffeine, no sex, no nicotine (all those things that make like worth living) can make one irritable.

There is a great deal of lamenting in the local press about how “Ramadan just isn’t the same as when I was a child….”

People are more materialistic. They are too stressed about keeping up with the Joneses (El Din’s?) in regards to their Iftar spread.

People were kinder to people on the street

People knew what the meaning of Ramadan REALLY was…

The traffic is SO much worse these days

All in all, it sounds a lot like the grumblings one can hear and read in the Western press about how people have “lost the meaning of Christmas” in all the commercialism.

Apparently everything was skittles and ice cream in the old days.

Anyway, some of the taxi drivers we encounter are Coptic. Some of them are rather sarcastic about Ramadan. They will point to shouting matches and fights on the streets, smirk, say “Ramadan Kareem” and shake their heads.

And fights on the street are common towards the end of the day. Most fights in Egypt in general are little more than slap-fights with a bunch of shoving. Strangers will rush in to stop a fight before it gets serious. I am not sure if that is function of the over-crowding here, or some other aspect of the culture.

What it means is that one can be fairly confident that if one were to get into a scuffle, one would only get to throw (or receive) one punch. One could extrapolate that to mean that is one of the reasons that scuffles happen so frequently, because people know the chances of real physical harm is minimal. It allows a blow off of steam in a (mostly) harmless fashion.

Don’t get me wrong, you don’t see fights “all the time” here. But I have seen more fights broken up on the streets here then I have in any period of my life, with the possible exception of junior high school 🙂

People were more cranky than usual the other day. On a taxi ride from campus to Zamalek (about 10 minutes drive, about a 40minute walk) I saw 3 separate fights.

The first involved 2 taxi drivers. I was moving past this one, so I did not see it in detail.

The 2nd involved drivers of private vehicles: both cars stopped and blocked traffic while they shouted and pushed at each other for a while.

Then the drivers got back in their respective cars, continuing to jabber at each other. Then they got BACK out of their cars for more nose-to-nose yelling. At which point the police came over and sent them on their way, mostly because they were completely blocking traffic.

The 3rd fight was in among a crowd outside the local post office.

It was this 3rd fight that prompted my Coptic taxi driver to wryly wish them a “Ramadan Kareem”

Categories
Out and about Photographs

The Citadel

The Citadel is a walled compound built on the hills on the outskirts of Cairo.

It started out as a small pavilion built in the early 800’s.

It was fortified and made into a fortress and royal city by Salah Al Din (aka “Saladin”) in the late 1700s 1100s [Thank you Kelley]
More details and history can be found here.

We visited with a group of the ALI (Arabic Learning Institute). The guide is a professor of Islamic Art. She has an astounding knowledge of the history of architecture and art in the Islamic world, and Cairo in particular.

We usually jump at the chance to go on one of her tours.

We toured all the mosques and other buildings, in chronological order, inside the Citadel. Some guide books play down the citadel as uninspiring and even a waste of time with all the other things to see in Cairo. I can see that if you were to go to the Citadel without a guide, or at least a good guide book.

Our guide greatly enriched our experience.

I took just a handful of shots. Flash is not allowed inside most of the buildings, so not alot of the shots came out. Here they are.

Categories
Out and about Photographs

A Walk in the Park..

A few days ago, we decided to visit Al Azhar Mosque, and Al Azhar Park.

They are “near” each other and near the Khan Al Khalili.

We took a taxi to the Mosque. This is a rather important mosque, in that it is attached to the Al Azhar University. This is, basically, the head of Sharia Law in Egypt (and most of the Sunni Islamic world.) It claims to be the oldest operating university in the world.

Anyway, we walked around the outside of the mosque as well as inside.

Detail work

We instantly attracted an unofficial “guide”. He wanted to show us around. Which consists of pointing at things and saying “look. big” or “see, very old”. For this he wanted to extract payment. This kind of thing happens in many places in Egypt. A few rounds of “La, Shokrun” eventually will get him to go away.

We then headed off to Al Azhar Park. This park is just outside the old walks of the city. The site of the park used to be an unofficial trash dump. It was where people dumped their trash and refuse. It was reclaimed and built up in layers over the old dump site. It is the largest green space in Cairo. It is truly a beautiful and incongruous place in the midst of the sprawl.

The park, on the map, looked like it was right next to the Mosque. And in fact it is. Except there is only one official entrance.

Motorcycle parking!

We ended up walking almost exactly half way around the park to get it. It was hot and sunny that day. We were rather warm by the time we made it.

Luckily we were able to lounge about by the fountains and pools in the shade to cool off.

cool gardens

We wandered around the park. It is built in layers, and there are fountains and pools and walkways that go up and down the different levels.

When it was time to go, we walked down the backside of the park, that faces the city and out a “back door” of the park through a construction site and back to the noise and chaos of the city.

It was a gorgeous break from the noise.

All the photos are available here.

Categories
Cultural Differences Out and about

They call me “baba”

[I know I am probably never gonna hear the end of this…]

This is a culture that respects age. An older woman is shown a great deal of respect. An older man, even more so.

When a group of people are together and deal with someone else outside the group, say a waiter or salesperson, you can see the waiter/salesperson scan the group. He/she will then address the senior looking man in the group.

Even if the senior person in the group attempts to defer to someone else, the natural tendency is to continue to deal with the senior male.

If it is a group of just women, the senior woman will become the de facto spokesperson. There is also some interplay of class involved. Dressing nicely here gets you a lot more respect. It would be interesting to observe a group of people made up of a poorly dressed older gentleman and a well dressed younger man to see who got the nod as spokesperson.

Anyway.

So, we went to the White Desert over Thanksgiving. There were 4 of us. Kaddee, E, R and myself.

Kaddee still looks like her high school yearbook photo in age.

E is a woman of about 25 years. 🙂

R is a man that looks about 18. I think he is around 29, but he looks very young.

So the 4 of us climb in a bus and head to Bahariya.

We arrive and are met by Ahmed El Shymy, our bedouin guide. He scans the 4 of us. You can see his eyes go from person to person.

He then turns to talk to me. Throughout our weekend with him and his guides, I was constantly consulted to make sure i was happy. No decisions were made without my consent. I would turn to the group for consensus but the final say was clearly mine.

I got “dibs” on shotgun in the vehicle. I got served tea or food first. It was odd. It was amusing. It also became somewhat tiring.

So after the first night, the bedouins start referring to me as “baba”, which is, literally “papa”. It was said with a great deal of good humor and meant as a sign of respect.

They also sat around the campfire on the second night and made up songs about baba jack who was freezing cold and huddled under blankets trying to make up for a lack of sleep the night before.

Funny bedouin bastards.

Categories
Out and about Photographs

An “photo essay” about leather tanning in Morocco on the BBC website

On the BBC website are some photos about the tanning process in Marrakesh.

I have a pair of the yellow shoes using the martin-esque marigold leather that we bought there. This photo of mine looks alike it was taken from the opposite and of the same alley as this one from the BBC website.

Kinda neat.

Categories
Out and about Photographs

Morocco photos

Just finished culling and editing. Post to follow. (Eventually)

Click here for photos

Categories
Out and about Photographs

Fun with Taxis

Today, being Tuesday, I have an Arabic lesson at the AUC main campus.

So, I go out to hail a taxi to get there.

I begin the taxi hailing process:

Stand in street, stick hand out into street, positioned at about 7:30. As the taxi slows down, yell in the window where you want to go. If the taxi driver wants to go there he’ll stop. If not, he will keep going.

To get a taxi from where I live (Zamalek) to campus (Midan Tahrir) at the time of day that I normally want to get there (around 1-2pm), can be difficult because the traffic can be very very bad. I have had as many as 8 taxis refuse to take me there.

I see a taxi approach, I put out my hand. I notice that there is a small boy sitting in the front seat. Now, it is not uncommon to share taxis here. If there is an empty seat, the taxi driver will slow down to hear where you want to go, and if it is on the way or nearby to his current destination, he will pick you up.

Both passengers still pay “full fare”, you get no discount.

But, I prefer not to get into a taxi that already has a passenger, cause the taxi driver’s definition of “on the way” and my definition of “on the way” do not match.

So, I drop my hand to wait for the next taxi, but he stops and asks where I want to go. (It probably helps that I am obviously a foreigner and standing outside the AUC hostel, so he figures:

  • I am obviously “rich”
  • I probably won’t know how much I should pay
  • and I am probably going to AUC campus.

I tell him, he agrees and I get in the back seat.

He takes an ill-advised route to get there [one pays a “well known” rate. it doesn’t matter how long it takes or how far out of your way he goes, the rate is the same]. I assume it is because he has to drop off the boy, so he chose the most congested, crowded route possible.

A few minutes of silence go by, and the man turns to the kid and says something about “bokra, insh’allah” and “khallas” which mean “tomorrow, god willing” and “enough!”.

The boys starts crying. sobbing and pleading. I got enough of the conversation that this has been an ongoing argument for sometime (days?) and that the taxi driver (who I realize is the kid’s father, based on the kid’s use of “baba”) has had “enough” and whatever it is will happen or get dealt with tomorrow.

More silence.

But that doesn’t last for long, because neither one of them is smart enough to let it go.

The boy will break the silence, begging to which the father will answer abruptly and again use “khallas”.

The boy will shut up.

After a few minutes of silence, the father will bring it up again and the boy will sob and plead.

Silencfe.

The boy will sob and plead again.

lather, rinse, repeat.

It isn’t entirely unpleasant and I spend the time trying to pick out what few words I can of the Arabic. It isn’t easy when one of the parties is sobbing while talking.

So, we reach the far side (from campus) of Midan Tahrir. The end of my time with the quarrelling father son team is nearing an end.

Traffic is stopped. We are stopped for a while. I decide to take out my cell phone (sorry: “mobile” here) and try to call Kaddee to see if she has time to meet me for lunch when:

WHAM

what the hell was..

WHAM

My taxi got rear-ended by another taxi. And then the taxi that rear-ended us, got rear-ended.

We pull over and the arguing begins. There is gesticulating, yelling and a crowd forms.

I get out of the taxi to snap a couple of photos.

I decide to vacate when the cops, who have been sitting not 5 meters away watching the whole thing, decide to come over and start taking notes.

Time to beat feet to campus.

If the taxi adventures continue, we may need a “taxi” category to keep track of these.